http://RealAdventures.com/vacations/184958_articles-china-other.htm Check out some of the recently updated travel & vacation listings on RealAdventures. Be inspired, go explore! en-us Fri, 27 Nov 2009 16:48:37 GMT Fri, 27 Nov 2009 16:48:37 GMT http://RealAdventures.com http://RealAdventures.com/vacations/184958_articles-china-other.htm 100 100 http://RealAdventures.com/listings/1184735_The-Simatai-Great-Wall-a-real-adventure-tour http://RealAdventures.com/listings/1184735_The-Simatai-Great-Wall-a-real-adventure-tour Articles China Mon, 20 Oct 2008 03:10:17 China is a country of amazing contrast. If you are a nature lover, it's easy to find a scenic city in China. If you are interested in Chinese history, you can visit historic cities like Beijing and Xi'an. -
China is a country of amazing contrast. If you are a nature lover, it's easy to find a scenic city in China. If you are interested in Chinese history, you can visit historic cities like Beijing and Xi'an.


China is a country of amazing contrast. If you are a nature lover, its easy to find a scenic city in China. If you are interested in Chinese history, you can visit historic cities like Beijing and Xian. If you are a shopaholic, you will love Shanghai and Hong Kong. If you are a pious pilgrim you may go to the Tibet and Chinas famous Buddhist Temples. What if you are an adventurer? Have you got any ideal about China? Do not hesitate. China could be your dreamland for a great adventure.

We will write serial articles to introduce the most exciting adventurous sites for you. Let us start from the Simatai Great Wall of Beijing.

The Great Wall is the biggest ancient military defensive system on the earth. It was initially built in 221 BC and did not end until the Ming Dynasty (13681644). It starts from the eastern coast line, winding through on the mountain ridges, crossing the rivers and valleys, snaking deep into the heart of western deserts. The wall's length was estimated to be anywhere from about 1500 to 31250 miles. Chinese simple call it the Tenthousandmile Great Wall. There many awesome sites along the magnificent Great Wall for hiking and trekking. You can choose from easy to hard area depends on your physical level. If you are up to challenge, the Simatai section will be ideal for you. The Simatai Great Wall is 5.4 km long with 35 beacon towers. It is maintained in its original appearance since the Ming Dynasty (13681644) and noted for the steepness, queerness, and intactness. Chinese people always called it as the wild Great Wall. The Simatai Great Wall is separated into eastern and western parts. The western part has 20 wellpreserved watchtowers dotted along the wall and appears gentle. In comparison, the eastern part is unbelievable steep and sited on the sheer mountain ridge. When you climb the eastern Simatai Great Wall, you will be stunned by ancient Chinese peoples architecture skill. This part is the most exciting hiking site for brave tourist. During the hiking, you will pass four tourist attractions. They are named the Watching Beijing Tower, Fairy Tower, Heavenly Ladder and Sky Bridge. Among them the Heavenly Ladder and Sky Bridge are the most dangerous and exciting areas. There are 16 beacon towers in the eastern of Simatai section. When you climb to the 14th beacon tower, you will see the most precipitous and slope parts of the Great Wall. This is why the 14th to the 15th is called the heavenly ladder. Heavenly ladder stretches up on the steep mountain cliff. The narrowest part of the wall is just more than half meter wide like a ladder rising up into heaven. You can imagine excitement of this fantastic hiking. If the heavenly ladder did not yet frighten you, there is even more breathtaking hiking site for you, the Sky Bridge. When you climb to the 15th and 16th beacon tower, you will see the Sky Bridge. It is a 40 cm wide and 100m long path connects the Fairy Tower to the Watching Beijing Tower. Only bravest people can pass the Sky Bridge. Are you the fearless one? Go for it!

In our followup articles, you will know more interesting adventurous site in China, including Lhasa, Chengdu, Lijiang, Guilin, and more.

Details & Reservations: The Simatai Great Wall a real adventure tour
RealAdventures | China Articles

]]> http://RealAdventures.com/listings/1156326_Culture-Journey-in-Beijing http://RealAdventures.com/listings/1156326_Culture-Journey-in-Beijing Articles China Wed, 23 Jan 2008 16:01:23 A cultural tour in the ancient city of Beijing, where I got to know the secrets of Chinese royal architectures. Here I just want show what I have learnt! -
A cultural tour in the ancient city of Beijing, where I got to know the secrets of Chinese royal architectures. Here I just want show what I have learnt!


Mystery of Chinese Royal architecture
With vivid characteristics, Chinese royal buildings, especially the most popular tourist attractions in Beijing, are mysterious to todays people. Nearly every small part of the architecture is different and has some symbolic value! Here we take the Forbidden City as an example and collect something interesting about this imperial palace. If explore it without a guide, you will never know the secrets. Lets feel it more than just watch it!

The Ornamental Pillars (Hua Biao)
A pair of marble pillars, decorated with exquisite clouds and entwined dragons carvings, can be often found in front of most large royal complexes. They were originally made of wood and used to solicit public opinions from the people. They were also treated as landmarks or road signs. But later they were only used to decorate important buildings.
The most famous Huabiaos are located at Tiananmen, two in front of the gate of Tiananmen and two behind the gate. On top of the Huabiaos, there sits a mythical animal called Hou. It is believed that the positioning of the Hous' heads was a reminder to the emperor of the hopes of the people. The two behind the gate looking at the palace (north) mean expecting the emperor to go out often and to understand the life of the people better. The two in front facing south express longing for the emperor's return to run state affairs when he was absent from the palace for too long.

Stone/Bronze Lions
Lion is a special animal to Chinese people. A pair of stone or bronze lions, a male and a female, can often be seen in front of the gates of traditional buildings. The male lion is on the left with his right paw resting on a ball, and the female on the right with her left paw fondling a cub.

Marble Terrace
Most of Chinese ancient royal buildings stand on marble terrace. The white marble terrace can not only support and magnify the single building on it, but also protect the wood structure from dampness. It also has a deeper meaning. It reflects the rank of the building.

Grand Roof
Roofs are very important to Chinese architecture. Palaces had particularly impressive elaborate roofs. The distinctive roof of Chinese architecture involves a great deal of symbolism. Symbolism is present in the colors and tiers of the eaves, roofing materials and roof top decorations.
Yellow, regarded as an auspicious color, was exclusively used by the imperial families of the Ming and Qing Dynasties. Imperial roofs are certainly brilliant gold or imperial yellow.

Tunjishou (the ridgedevouring beast)
Watch carefully, you will find the ridges of each roof are topped with figures of mythical creatures. Fierce and formidable, it looks as if it were ready to devour the whole ridge so it is also known as tunjishou or the ridgedevouring beast.
What were they used for? For decorative purposes only? According to architects, these strangelooking creatures can prevent the roof from sliding. Moreover, the number and the size of the creatures on the eaves indicate the importance of the building. When visiting the royal palace, it can be very interesting to count the animals on the eaves and get to know exactly how important the building was.

Tianhe Dian
Now, it is very easy to figure out that the Hall of Taihe Dian is the main hall of the Forbidden City. First, the building is raised on a triple marble terrace, 8 m (26 ft) high, enclosed by marble balustrades, whilst those around the same courtyard were kept lower so as to set off the magnificence of the hall. Second, it has a roof with double eaves and is decorated with carved dragons and phoenixes, most of which are gilded. Third, dont forget the little mythical creatures on the eave. There are 12 in total, the most of all! The Hall of Taihe Dian was the place where emperors in the Ming and Qing dynasties held.

Colors in the Forbidden City
The Forbidden City is a complex painted in just two colors, yellow and red, which can be seen throughout the city. The color red signifies happiness and yellow signifies earth. In ancient China, the color yellow in particular, was most extensively and exclusively used by the emperors, who were regarded as the Sons of Heaven and the supreme rulers of humanity. Therefore, yellow became the dominant color in the Forbidden City. Roofs are built with yellow glazed tiles decorations in the palace are painted yellow even the bricks on the ground are made yellow by a special process.

There is much more in the Forbidden City waiting for you to discover. Why is it that no trees in the grand courtyard of the Hall of Taihe Dian.? Hundreds of gilt bronze vats are scattered in the Forbidden City. What were they used for? Only when you get there can you reveal its mysterious veil!

Details & Reservations: Culture Journey in Beijing
RealAdventures | China Articles

]]> http://RealAdventures.com/listings/1025879_China-and-the-Yangtze-River http://RealAdventures.com/listings/1025879_China-and-the-Yangtze-River Articles China Wed, 12 May 2004 00:05:00 Cruising downtstream on the Yangtze River, the third largest river in the world and going through the ship locks is not to be missed when visiting China. See the spectacular scenery along the river and don't forget to taste the Peking Duck! - US $1,999 - 2,600
Cruising downtstream on the Yangtze River, the third largest river in the world and going through the ship locks is not to be missed when visiting China. See the spectacular scenery along the river and don't forget to taste the Peking Duck!


Cruising the Yangtze River

By Phyllis Steinberg

China is a nation of contrasts. The 5,000 years of civilization are reflected in centuries old villages, temples and monuments. Then, there is the cosmopolitan city of Shanghai which is flanked by new skyscrapers and thousands of neon lights.


In the city of Beijing, take along your walking shoes as you visit historic sights such as Tiananmen Square, the world's largest public square covering 110 acres. You will probably see hundreds of people waiting in a long line at the square to visit the Monument to the People's Heroes, which was built in 1958, where Chairman Mao Zedong lies in state. Chairman Mao, communist leader ruled the country from 1949 until his death in 1976 and his influence can be seen throughout China.


Just across the street is the Forbidden City, home to the emperor and his royal family. Entry to the Forbidden City was forbidden for the common people until 1911, when the last emperor, Puyi, was overthrown. The City which occupies 775,000 square feet and nearly 10,000 rooms is an architectural masterpiece that is surrounded by a moat and a 33foot high wall designed to keep intruders out. Most of the original treasures of the Forbidden City have been removed, but you can stroll among the vast buildings and admire the architecture of the city where the Ming Emperors resided for centuries.


Save The Great Wall of China for another walking day. It is one of the world's seven great manmade wonders. Originally built as a defense against enemies from the north, the Great Wall was constructed over a period of 2,000 years, following different routes according to need. The wall stretches 3,700 miles and has 10,000 beacon towers. Climbing to the top of the wall is an adventure for only the most fit. But taking a few steps is all you need to view the majesty of the Great Wall and you can choose how far you want to climb. At the base of the Great Wall there are many stores to purchase inexpensive souvenirs and a coffee shop to rest your feet after the extensive climb on uneven steps.


A visit to China, wouldn't be complete with tasting the national dish, &8220Peking Duck.&8221 Beijing was originally called Peking and later the name was changed to Beijing. There are many Peking Duck Restaurants, but the Quanjude Peking Duck Restaurant in Beijing, which has been in business for the last 130 years is highly recommended. The duck is carved tableside and the surroundings are clean and beautiful.


The bustling city of Shanghai is China's most cosmopolitan city. Here, you can visit Yu Garden, a Ming Dynastyera , A.D. 13681644, garden, Nanjing Road and the famed waterfront Bund, with its tall buildings and bright lights. And you can visit the Old City for numerous low cost souveniers to take home! Plan to spend a few hours at the modern Shanghai Art Museum with its four floors of treasures of Chinese civilization. The Chinese Acrobat Show in Shanghai is also a mustsee for tourists to China.


While, these are surely great sights to attract the most discriminating of travelers, cruising the Yangtze River, is something that must not be missed by travelers to this immense Asian destination.


Ritz Tours offers a combined experience of visiting the interesting cities of Beijing and Shanghai with the Yangtze River Cruise, which is reasonably priced and very well organized.


Ritz Tours has a guide that stays with the group for the entire trip, including on the cruise, and has a local guide in addition at each city. This is extremely important for visitors to China because most of the population does not speak English and it is difficult to obtain directions from the locals.


The Yangtze River flows through eight provinces and has more than 700 tributary rivers. It is the longest river in China and the third longest in the world, traveling more than 3,900 miles.


Victoria Cruises, an American cruise line in China, has four cruise ships sailing up and down the Yangtze River.


The downstream itinerary is the most popular. It departs from Chongqing to Yichang. The cruise takes passengers through the Three Gorges shiplocks and offers a complimentary shore excursion on a smaller vessel through the Lesser Three Gorges which were formed about 70 million years ago. These Gorges, formed by earth movements into the sea, create spectacular scenery dotted by perpendicular cliffs and curves in the gorges.


The breathtaking Three Gorges, Qutang, Wuxia and Ziling, will probably disappear when the Three Gorges Dam Project is completed in 2008. The 28mile Wu Gorge is the most beautiful. It is lined by many picturesque peaks and valleys. Even though the water level of the Yangtze is being slowly raised in a massive effort to subdue the annual floodwaters that devastate the river valley, the Gorges are a spectacular sight. Two million people who live along the Yangtze River will have to be relocated when the dam is completed.


The Dam Project has been taken on by the Chinese government to improve shipping, prevent flooding and provide hydroelectric power to China's interior.


The downstream cruise also includes a visit to The Three Gorges Dam Project which provides an indepth look at this modern technological structure.


Going through the ship locks is an unforgettable, unique experience of the Yangtze River cruise. Unlike the Panama Canal, ships go through the locks on their own power. The raising of the ship as it goes through the locks is quite dramatic because the ship is just four stories high allowing for great visuals and picture taking.


The scenery of the Three Gorges and going through the locks is more than worth the price of the cruise, but Victoria Cruises also gives passengers fine dining and entertainment.


The ship offers a variety of cuisine. There was a daily breakfast and lunch buffet that included American items such as waffles, a pizza and a salad bar, in addition to the traditional Chinese cuisine.


Dinners were served with pomp and circumstance, Chinese style, with a revolving center on each table featuring a wide variety of appetizers, entrees and desserts. Chopsticks were there to eat with, but there were also knives, forks and spoons for the less adventurous.


Following dinner, there was entertainment each evening in the show lounge. Especially entertaining was the Chinese fashion show, complete with music and costumes from the Ming Dynasty to current day attire.


There were also karate demonstrations, a Peking opera and a karaoke singalong each evening.


And for those who wanted to learn the Chinese game of Maj jong. There were sets on board and instructions on how to play.


The ship also had an exercise room with treadmills and weight equipment and a beauty salon and spa.


The newest ship in the line is the Victoria Katarina, which made its inaugural cruise in March of 2004.


This fourdeck ship offers comfortable outside cabins with picture windows and private bathrooms. Every cabin also has a private balcony.
There was also a gift shop, plenty of deck space and a staff that was friendly and aiming to please. Tipping on the ship was optional. A tip box was on the main deck and guests had suggested guidelines of tipping in their staterooms.


If you are contemplating a visit to China, try to take the cruise and witness the spectacular scenery of the Three Gorges before the new Dam is completed.


Details & Reservations: China and the Yangtze River
RealAdventures | China Articles

]]> http://RealAdventures.com/listings/1024045_Across-Tibet-s-Untamed-West http://RealAdventures.com/listings/1024045_Across-Tibet-s-Untamed-West Articles China Sat, 07 Jul 2001 00:07:00 At 40005000m above sea level, the Tibetan plateau is deserving of its title &8216Roof of the World&8217 -
At 40005000m above sea level, the Tibetan plateau is deserving of its title &8216Roof of the World&8217


By Lisa & Andre Ismael

No one on earth is as close to the heavens as the people of Tibet. Averaging between 4000m and 5000m above sea level, the Tibetan plateau is deserving of its title as &8216Roof of the World&8217. Mysterious in ways that few other places are, travel is tough but rewarding, providing travelers with the unique scenery, people and culture of a gigantic and isolated land not yet tamed by man.

I came to know more about Tibet during my travels in India in 1993, supping on Tibetan noodle soup and ploughing through a photographic book of a land and culture completely foreign to me. Since that day I had dreamed of travelling to the enchanting land of Tibet. Four years later my dream was realized.

Renown for their religious piety and lengthy pilgrimages, Andr and I set out to learn more about these courageous and somewhat mystic individuals. A people most of us have come to know because of their exiled spiritual and political leader, the Dalai Lama.

The journey began in Yecheung, in the Xinjiang region of China, where we were faced with the problem of finding a truck driver who was willing to take foreigners illegally across some of the most dangerous and isolated roads in the world. Crossing high mountain passes and traversing desolate lands, the journey required full preparation for high altitudes and harsh weather conditions, foreigners had even died on the road.

After a week of waiting we finally secured a ride to Ali, the first leg of our journey to central Tibet. The road had been blocked for 18 days by an enormous landslide and was at last clear. Unfortunately the authorities spotted us leaving Yecheung and confiscated the keys to the truck. Our nervous but quick thinking driver, Lee, insisted we were travelling north not south and unbelievably they handed back the keys.

Everything we needed was carried onboard the truck, including fuel, oil, spare parts and food enough for the 1360km journey to Ali, which would take 4 days without obstacles. After 3 days with Lee we had covered 320km, the journey plagued by an overheating engine, a blocked fuel line, a faulty compressor and numerous flat tires. We learnt how versatile truck drivers who traverse the Tibetan plateau can be, watching pieces of wire and cardboard finish off on road repairs, though not always successfully.

Although it was summer, the nights were bitterly cold and most mornings we woke on our beds of slate stone (the cargo Lee was carrying), with a layer of ice trimming our sleeping bags. At altitudes over 5000m, when the sun disappeared so did any warmth, it was freezing.

Although Lee was a nice guy, on the 4th morning we'd had enough and decided to change trucks. Traffic wasn&8217t heavy on the highway, but we managed to get a lift with some Uigar truckies from Yecheung. The boys had taken one day to travel the distance we had come in four. With four of us squashed in the cab we continued on only to find that flat tires and troublesome compressors were a common problem. It seemed that all the truckies preferred to fix problems as they occurred rather than to maintain their trucks.

People were few and far between. There were no trees and vegetation was sparse. Occasionally we'd pass a group of Tibetan nomads tending their yaks and sheep and warming their tents with yak dung fires. A few lonely tents had also been set up on route as makeshift restaurants and rest stops for our truckie mates. The only settlements we passed were Chinese military base camps around the area of Aksai Chin, whose ownership is still disputed by India, Pakistan and China. While we hid silently in the truck, our hosts would haggle over road and cargo taxes at these Chinese military check points. Travelling almost 18 hours per day, we averaged a speed of 20 km/hr, a journey not for the impatient, finally arriving in Ali at midnight on the 6th night. There was only one hotel in town that would take foreigners.

Ali (Shiquanhe) was built by the Chinese to administer that vast region of Western Tibet. It is the only shopping centre for miles. The city is dry and dusty, one side distinctly Chinese and the other Tibetan. Many of the Chinese that have settled there, have been sponsored by the Chinese government to start small businesses and a new life. The men in green (Public Security Bureau) were quick to find us, we hadn&8217t even left our hotel room before they were knocking at our door. There was little fuss and a $US 50 fine enabled us to become legal aliens.

After a welcome hot shower at the public baths (the only place in town with hot water on tap) and a two day wait we secured a lift with a convey of four trucks and began a detour to Mount Kailash.

With the prestige of being Asia&8217s most sacred mountain, Mount Kailash (6714m) is an important religious site and pilgrimage destination for both Buddhists and Hindus alike. It is the place of origin of their most venerable gods and the sacred river Ganges.

The journey was flatter, but still at high altitudes over a dry and dusty land. There was no road only a well worn truck trail but at least the nights were warmer and we could sleep out under the light of the stars and a full moon without collecting ice. The journey was made light hearted by a disco dancing truck driver and a watermelon feast to celebrate the full moon. Passing a couple of truckloads of Tibetan pilgrims dressed in their finest costume, we wondered if anyone still made the long pilgrimage from Lhasa by foot.

After 21/2 days we got our first views of the majestic lone peak of Mt Kailash as we arrived in Darchen, the starting point of the pilgrimage. We met a old wizened Indian Sadhu, a true ascetic, who had walked bare foot over the Himalayas to complete his third circuit of the sacred Kailash. Not being ascetics ourselves, we set off on the 53 km path (khora) that circumambulates the entire mountain armed with tent, sleeping bags, warm clothes and food. Most Tibetan pilgrims complete the circuit in a frenzy, swinging prayer wheels and uttering mantras, taking only one day (1214hrs). Walking at a more leisurely pace, the khora usually takes a minimum of three days. During their lifetimes, many Tibetan pilgrims attempt more than one round, most doing three. The more devout circle 13 times and the even more pious aim for 108 circuits. One circuit is said to wipe out a lifetime of sins, 108 ensures enlightenment and entry into nirvana.

During our four day trek we face all the elements burning sun, harsh wind, rain and snow. Meeting each challenge of the gods we were passed by the faithful who carried almost nothing.

Along the path there are many monuments and natureformed icons which have been bestowed with potent spirituality as a result of frequent contact with saints and holy men. Six monasteries are scattered around the circuit each with its own mystical history. The two major cemeteries are especially eerie places, littered with offerings of hair, fingernails, teeth, clothes and bones. These are the sacred burial grounds of past enlightened beings and are now a place to meditate and absorb the special powers left behind. They are also used for the ceremonious sky burials, the most common of the five burial types (earth, water, fire, sky and embalming) practiced in Tibet. Traditionally the corpse is laid out in the open, carefully skinned and dissected and the bones crushed and mixed with tsampa (barley flour) all to be eaten by flocks of ravens, hawks and vultures.

As we&8217re standing at Drachom Ngagye Durtro cemetery ominous clouds roll over and the wind picks up. Looking around us we see typical offerings and a few circling black ravens. Near to where we are standing the remains of two fingers reveal a recent sky burial sending shivers down our spines. We move on.

On the third evening we see the peak of the mighty Mt. Kailash, which since the first night has been covered in cloud. The night brings snow and we wake the next day to see a caravan of yaks and Tibetan pilgrims passing by on the snow dusted trail. Brimming with joy they wave and yell "Tarshee Delay" the traditional Tibetan greeting.

The climb ahead to Drolma pass (5636m) is steep and passes a number of spiritually significant sites, which with small rituals, help to cleanse sins and improve prospects for the next life. The crossing of Drolma represents the transition from this life to the next. Here all the pilgrim is reborn and all sins are forgiven by the Goddess of Mercy. This is a place of rejoicing. Yak butter is dabbed on rock surfaces, prayer flags are lifted, offerings are left, prostrations and wishes are made. Here the pilgrims eat their best meal of the journey to ensure bountiful food in times to come. It seems that everyone is &8216on top of the world&8217 as they feast on dry yak cheese, tsampa mixed with butter and sugar, We share in the festivities watching different groups come and go. You can&8217t help reflecting on your own life and having a few words with whomever your God may be.

Further down the track we meet two women and a nun nursing a pilgrim. No one is sure exactly what is wrong, hypothermia, exhaustion or altitude sickness, but she&8217s shivering and unable to walk. We brew a hot cup of protein packed chocolate on the portable stove, wrap warm clothes around her and give her half a Diamox tablet in case it&8217s altitude sickness as she says she has a headache. The almost placebo dose seems to work wonders and with the help of her friends she makes it down the steep slope, to the river and along to a rest stop where the women refuel with yak butter tea and tsampa.

On our final days of the trek we&8217re accompanied by a beautiful white dog who even spends the night with us. It is said that the dogs that roam the khora are the spirits of old monks and ascetics. Our dog leads us into Darchen and disappears, perhaps to start the circuit again.

A little tired and hungry, we arrive back in Darchen and are greeted by some Nepalese pilgrims we met on the circuit. Three of the party of eight didn&8217t make it around, turning back with signs of altitude sickness.

As the southern route to Lhasa is usually awash with melting snow at this time of year we have to backtrack to Ali, luckily there's is a truck going our way. As we leave Darchen, black clouds open and spit hail stones down on us and the bouncing empty truck becomes a mud bath. At least, amazingly enough, no breakdowns.

Fighting stomach problems we grab our next lift to Gertse along with a hitch hiking monk and three other Tibetans. At night we stop by a river where a fire is lit and tents are put up. Do it yourself butchers hack a sheep carcass to pieces to be boiled for dinner, of course a meal is never complete without yak butter tea and tsampa. The boys make a party of the night bringing out piju (beer) and local the fire water.

The next day we pass a borax lake where the white salt is extracted from its murky waters. Everything is coated in white. Tibet is a gold mine of untapped mineral resources, one of the many reasons for China&8217s vested interest.

At Gertse we face the problem of sorry no foreigners at the Inn, though with the help of some locals we manage to get a room with no smiles. It takes us three days to get out of this dust bucket town and on the road to Shigatse, 920km away. Finally we get a lift for the right price with a convey of four trucks carting borax to Lhasa. Using the 'Lonely Planet's' language section we manage to communicate with our cheeky driver, Tenzin. He takes a liking to the word &8216shitty&8217 which he uses constantly while pointing at the would be road.

One morning we wake to one of the most beautiful sights that I saw in Tibet. A blanket of white snow covered the surrounding hills and plains, nomad tents smoke in the distance, yaks huddle together for warmth and young girls herd goats. Nomads dressed in traditional Tibetan costume walk across the plain to check out the foreigners.

We travel through snow and mud getting stuck more than once. There are a few more welcome restaurants and truck stops on route, and even sometimes a place to stay. We pass nomads on the move, yaks packed with tents and belongings and sheep and goats herded by children across the huge, wild land. They wave and smile shouting &8216Tarshee delai&8217 as our paths cross.

The scenery begins to change as we approach central Tibet. Nomadic tents give way to sedentary villages. Finally I find out where all the tsampa comes from as we pass by golden fields of barley. Plants begin to grow again at around 3000m and the villages seem more friendly and hospitable than those of Ali and Gertse.

On day 5 we pass the Friendship Highway which leads to Nepal and hit asphalt as we head into Latse. Here we see foreigners in hired jeeps who have just crossed over from Nepal. We walk through the town to avoid trouble for our truckie mates, feasting on the Tibetan village scenery.

On the last pass we face a double banger blow out which delays us another couple of hours. As the lights of Shigatse shine on the horizon we breathe a sigh of relief it&8217s been a long hard trip, averaging a slow 18 hours a day. We relax too soon as a check point takes us all by surprise. We duck down and Tenzin starts to sweat. The police unfortunately spot us and ask Tenzin to get out of the truck. Tenzin comes back resting his head on the steering wheel. "Sorry Tenzin", we apologize. He turns his head smiles and says "I love you", and we laugh our way into Shigatse.
Details & Reservations: Across Tibet's Untamed West
RealAdventures | China Articles

]]> http://RealAdventures.com/listings/1024392_Journey-to-Kashgar http://RealAdventures.com/listings/1024392_Journey-to-Kashgar Articles China Tue, 27 Mar 2001 00:03:00 Kashgar, once a key centre of the ancient silk road, now lies in the autonomous region of North Western China. -
Kashgar, once a key centre of the ancient silk road, now lies in the autonomous region of North Western China.


By Lisa & Andre Ismael

Kashgar, once a key centre of the ancient silk road, visited by merchants and famed travellers such as Marco Polo, lies in the autonomous region of Xingjiang in North Western China. The fabled city sits as a giant oasis, 1240m above sea level on the eastern border of the Taklimakan desert.

The journey from Northern Pakistan to Xingjiang takes us through a multitude of different panoramas. At 4730m the Kunjerab pass forms a natural border between Pakistan and China and, in the winter months, becomes impossible to cross, blocked by the cold, harsh forces of nature. From here the road winds on through a vast, mountainous desert, capped with snow. There is little in the way of vegetation, but donkeys and double humped camels can be seen plodding aimlessly along the plains of this dry and arid land.

Xingjiang is home to many ethnic minorities, such as the Uigur, Tajik, Kazakh and Uzbehk peoples, and the Chinese, making it a culturally diverse region. The first city along the highway is Tashkurgan (3600m), a predominately Tajik town, where ruins of a 600 year old fort overlook green pastures that are surrounded by snow topped, desert mountains. In this wee town we have our first taste of Chinese cuisine and our first lesson. Back in the hotel we discover we've been ripped off, having paid triple the usual price for our meal. We learn that our foreign faces signify 'loads of cash'. Our lesson always know and agree on the price before ordering and eating. The food was excellent by the way.

After travelling through Pakistan it was almost shocking to see women's bare arms and legs again. The first Tajik woman we saw wore a frilly white dress, stockings, red high heels, and a small head scarf, her face painted white like someone off an opera stage. Two months in Pakistan, where women covered themselves from head to toe, had taken their toll and I wondered how many brothels there were in town.

It was an incredible fight to get on the bus to Kashgar. There weren't enough seats for the amount of tickets that had been sold. People pushed and shoved to sit themselves down, there were no pleasantries. The bus was jammed with biscuits, kitchenware and fabrics from Pakistan and a wild array of people including Pakistanis, Chinese, Tajiks, Uigars, two Japanese, and us a Brazilian and a New Zealander. Travelling eastwards we passed a few nomadic settlements, looking as if time had never touched them. Camels sat parked outside tents made of animal hide, while children ran about playing without any cares.

Soon the scenery became dominated by the 7540m Muztagh Aga (Father of Ice Mountains) and Mount Kongur (7720m). Lying in the laps of these mighty mountains is Lake Karakol creating spectacular desert scenery of water, sand and snow. At the lakeside the bus stopped for a lunch break, and although there is no town, there is tourist nomadic tent style accommodation, a couple of restaurants, souvenirs and the chance to have a picture taken with a two humped camel. We thought the scenery was worth an overnight stay, so we caught a bus onwards the next day.

From the lake, the road takes us through more desert scenery finally plunging down into the Ghez river canyon and onto the plains. Small towns and signs of agriculture begin to appear. We take a break, from the arse breaking bus ride, at a small town where horse and carts are still the main mode of transport. The atmosphere of this timeless place more like that of the old Soviet Union or Eastern Europe. The men wear shirts, trousers, blazers and caps, and women dress in knee length frocks, stockings, high heels and cover their hair with small, colourful scarves. Young boys play pool in an outdoor hall surrounded by noodle and bagel stalls. Not many tourists visit this town, and the towns people are most curious about our foreign faces. On the road again we finally arrive in Kashgar after 10 hours of a dusty, bumpy but incredibly scenic ride.

The majority of the 200,000 people that live in Kashgar are Uigur, though the population of Chinese is forever increasing. Uigur people are followers of the Islamic faith, their written script is Arabic, their language closely related to Turkish and their physical features more or less Caucasian. Although the Chinese have done a great deal to improve the living conditions in the region such as building roads, railways hospitals and industry, there is an air of tension between the Uigars and the Chinese. Understandably, the Uigars cannot forgive their compatriots for their past wrongdoings, such as once replacing all Arabic script taught in schools with Chinese characters, the closing of the mosques during the cultural revolution and the past centuries of misrule by the Chinese. Or maybe it simply comes down to present religious and cultural differences.

Id Kah mosque is the center of Uigur activity. Muslims pray at five set times during the day and Friday is Sabbath. Fridays are exceptionally busy at the mosque. Exotic faces from the past, come from the city and surrounding countryside, ambling into the mosque to find peace and prayer. It's a religious and social event. Uigur men arrive with long beards and dress in their finest fur coats and embroidered caps. Women, although not permitted into the interior of the mosque, are also around for the event. Some in long dark dresses, their heads and faces covered with large brown gauze scarves. Others take a less severe approach wearing knee length dresses, sequined material a favourite, stockings and small head scarves that cover only their hair.

Around the mosque a maze of narrow streets make up the market place. Kashgar is a hat making center, here milliners make and sell felt caps, embroidered Muslim caps and exotic fur lined hats made from sheep, goat and occasionally snow leopard or marmot skins. Knives are another specialty of the region and are especially ornate. On the roadside blacksmiths pound their anvils and coppersmiths beat out urns and pots. Shoe repair men work with simple tools and pieces of string. Old bearded men sell Muslim prayer beads and Koran's decorated with beautiful calligraphy. Everywhere you look there is a scene from another time.

First thing in the morning the aroma of freshly baked bagels lingers in the air, caressing the olfactory senses. This bread is definitely at its best while it's still warm, as it turns into a some kind of rock formation on cooling. But the food on the streets does not always tempt ones optical senses. Chicken feet and heads are a local delicacy along with the heads of goats and sheep. Savoury dishes of offal and intestine steam on street corners and are eaten with gusto. Apart from these fine foods, you can find delicious dumplings filled with meat or vegetables which are rolled and steamed in front of you, certifying their freshness. Outside restaurants, culinary experts swing their dough producing perfect noodles to make tasty chow miens and soups. The streets are filled with local culinary delights.

On Sundays the shopping focus shifts to the eastern outskirts of town. Traffic jams of horses and carts carrying produce and passengers, block the main road as people from the country side pour into town for the Sunday Market. It's a huge event. Live stock for sale includes horses, fat bottomed sheep, goats, cattle, yaks and camels. Amongst the animals men bargain and fight for the best market price, puffing on and offering cigarettes in the hope of a good deal.

In the fruit and vegetable market the choices are numerous. Sweet melons, grapes, oranges and apples. Choice tomatoes, cabbages, green vegetables, spring onions, garlic and ginger. In the fabric section sequined women bargain for the choicest cloths, the gaudier the better. In restaurants noodles and odd delicacies are munched on while watching loud cgrade movies, each establishment competing for noise space. The markets is alive with bargain hunters and merchants. It's a fascinating place to spend the day watching and wandering.

We went to Kashgar having no idea what we would find. What we found was a hospitable and almost timeless people, fighting to hold onto their culture. Though not as exotic as its silk route days, Kashgar retains a uniqueness in its ever changing motherland. Despite the white statue of Chairman Mao in the main street, the city stands a world apart from greater China as its minorities fight to hold onto their autonomy.
Details & Reservations: Journey to Kashgar
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