Oahu - The Gathering Place

Oahu, appropriately nicknamed "The Gathering Place", is not the largest of the Hawaiian Islands...it’s the third largest; in fact, the Island of Hawaii (known as "The Big Island") covers more land than all of the other 6 major islands combined. However, Oahu has long been host to the major assemblage of residents and guests; beginning with the ancient Hawaiian ali’i (royalty) and continuing with today’s cosmopolitan capital city of Honolulu and one of the world’s most famous beach playgrounds, Waikiki.

We’ve heard comments from some travelers that Oahu isn’t the "real" Hawaii; that they only visit Maui or Kauai or The Big Island because Oahu is too crowded, too touristy, and has been "spoiled" by all of the development. Those who have read any of our "Jan’s Journeys" articles on Maui and Kauai know how we truly adore those island gems, and we do tend to relax a bit more there. Which is why we schedule Oahu at the beginning of our trip so we can ease into the vacation pace...or at the end of our visit so we can gear back up for the mainland, without as much culture shock when we reach reality at the airport back in San Francisco!


We’ve always thoroughly enjoyed Oahu’s vast and diverse resources: cultural (all that a vibrant city such as Honolulu has to offer); historic (including the only royal palace on U.S. soil and sites such as Pearl Harbor and Punchbowl); island heritage (the origins of the early Hawaiians as presented at the fascinating Bishop Museum or the famous Polynesian Cultural Center); dining (the latest in Pacific Rim cuisine or ethnic foods representing the great rainbow of backgrounds found in the population); entertainment (Waikiki offers a non-stop kaleidoscope of options!); shopping (ranging from the largest mall in the islands, to designer-name shops and upscale boutiques, to the family-owned stalls in open-air markets); water sports (do words like Banzai and Pipeline conjure up an image for you?). Plus, when you’ve exhausted as many of these possibilities as you desire (or they’ve exhausted you), a pleasant drive will take you to the other side of the island where you’ll find the quiet beaches and tropical scenery that match the vision of "unspoiled" Hawaii. All of this variety is part of an Oahu odyssey, and I’ll try to describe some of the many attractions that are available in addition to the well-known cliche of playing on Waikiki Beach!!

A perfect starting point is The Aloha Tower, which offers a warm welcome to visitors and returning residents alike since 1926. At that time it was the tallest building in Hawaii; now it’s diminutive in comparison to the modern skyscrapers of Honolulu. However, newly restored, it is still a waterfront landmark which inspires memories of early-1900s cruise ships coming into port and leis tossed to the water as those ships departed. The view from the top-level observation deck is worth the ride up in the cramped elevator, and you’ll still see ocean liners docked beneath it. The old tower is now joined by the Aloha Tower Marketplace, with many shops and restaurants in a colorful open-air setting, and there’s an excellent maritime center/museum nearby.

Honolulu
Downtown Honolulu is a short distance from the Aloha Tower, and there is much to see in the area. Besides the usual stores and office buildings, there are pedestrian malls and small parks. Contrasts abound...ornate Chinatown with its exotic delicacies (some of which I couldn’t identify...which in a few cases was probably for the best!) and the sleek lines of the State Capitol. In the midst of government buildings are graceful historic places such as the Missionary Houses and the majestic Iolani Palace. A guided tour of the Palace (advance reservations are often necessary) is an exquisite step back into time to the era of the Kings and Queens of the Hawaiian Islands. Construction of the present building was begun on the last day of 1879, near the location of the earlier palace. King Kalakaua moved into Iolani Palace in 1882, and it was the site of grand festivities as well as the business of the kingdom until his death in 1891. He was succeeded by his sister, Queen Lili’uokalani, who unfortunately faced great sadness in this most lovely spot. Following the overthrow of the monarchy in 1893, she was imprisoned in a small, austere room for 8 months during 1895, accused of knowing about the rebellion launched in an effort to restore the monarchy. The Palace became the seat of government for the Republic, Territory and then State of Hawaii. Though a great deal of damage was done to the building and most of its furnishings were sold during this period, restoration was begun in 1969 when the new capitol building was completed. Today much of its grandeur has been reinstated, and the search continues for still-missing pieces of furniture or accessories...items have been discovered in the most far-flung and surprising locales! As the guides weave their tales of the proud monarchy, it’s easy to imagine the receiving lines for royal audiences in the opulent Throne Room, the dinners for international leaders in the dignified State Dining Room, and the regal balls that were attended by rulers and heads of state from around the world. The Palace is very special...one can feel the resonance of the past.

Waikiki
Then, of course, there is Waikiki! It’s a district, not just a beach, and it’s brimming with vibrant action. You can fill each day with activities....or just lay on that fabled beach, which although often crowded, retains its own unique allure. As always, it’s watched over by the unmistakable, unforgettable profile of Diamond Head silhouetted against the Pacific. Two venerable hotels still anchor Waikiki: that gorgeous "pink palace"…The Royal Hawaiian, and the stately Moana. Though they’re now owned by large corporations, they still echo the early years of Hawaiian tourism and a more gracious lifestyle. Of course, they’re enveloped by high-rise hotels and condos of every description and price range. We own a timeshare in the middle of Waikiki, so we don’t have personal experience with any other lodging. I think it’s safe to say, however, that visitors can find the accommodations to meet whatever requirements they may have; the same can be said of shopping and dining! Many free guidebooks and magazines (most with discount coupons) are available at the airport, at hotels and condos, and in streetside-boxes throughout Waikiki. These will provide information about everything there is to see and do (and eat and buy!) on the island. The concierge or activities staff where you’re staying can also offer knowledgeable suggestions and recommendations. By the way, if you aren’t able to stay on the "neighbor" islands during your visit, there are several companies that offer flights and guided tours for a day on The Big Island, Maui, Kauai, and Molokai. This is a wonderful way to experience another island during a vacation that is too short to allow for multi-island stopovers, especially for a first-time visitor to Hawaii. Or to see an island such as Molokai, which may not be on the itinerary for an extended stay but is definitely a stunning and intriguing place to spend a day (which we have done, with much pleasure).

Getting Around
We found, on our initial trip to Oahu, that having a car in Waikiki is usually a detriment. Parking is limited and most parking garages are fairly expensive. All of the most popular attractions provide pick-up and return shuttles to Waikiki; there are numerous sightseeing tours readily available; the Oahu bus system (cleverly named The Bus!) is excellent and has frequent service to most parts of the island; and it’s easy to rent a car for a day trip. A fun and informative means of transportation is the Waikiki Trolley, which departs several times a day and travels to many Honolulu-area locations with narration from the driver along the way. Riders can get off at any spot, spend as much time as they like, and show their ticket to catch another trolley and continue the tour.

Just a few examples of things to do in Waikiki and around the island are: the Honolulu Zoo and Waikiki Aquarium (both an easy walk from anywhere in Waikiki); weekly events in Kapiolani Park and at the Waikiki Bandshell, including the Kodak Hula Show and performances of the Royal Hawaiian Band; plus seasonal festivals (such as the annual "Lei Day/May Day" celebration with all-day entertainment and a beautiful display of award-winning leis); innumerable stage shows and concerts in the large hotels and showrooms. Additionally, there are helicopter tours; parasailing; submarine rides; boat trips for sightseeing along the coast, snorkeling, sportfishing, diving, or a sunset dinner cruise...most of these companies will arrange transportation to and from Waikiki. A bit further away are: Hanauma Bay (the marine sanctuary/snorkeling spot which can be reached by a short drive, a tour, or on The Bus); Sea Life Park and Waimea Falls Park (again, accessible by shuttle, tour or The Bus for those who don’t have a rental car); luaus (Germaines and/or Paradise Cove are fun to go to once, then definitely seek out the smaller venues); and half-day Honolulu-area or day-long circle island tours. You’ll have no problem finding details on all of these activities, and many more. Waikiki is a blending of all kinds of variables: exclusive boutiques mix with tacky outlets of souvenir schlock (I didn’t know whether to laugh or cry the first time I saw those dreadful electronic hula dolls dancing to an off key rendition of "Aloha Oe"!); expensive jewelry shops coexist with vendors selling knock-offs and imitations; there’s the kitschy appeal of the International Market Place; and the well-dressed mingle with the barely-dressed while sidewalk coupon-peddlers pass out their piles of fliers and advertisements. It’s busy and noisy, a great deal of fun and ever present is that long, wide expanse of beach.

Diamond Head Mountain
I previously mentioned Diamond Head, Waikiki’s silent sentinel. Although there are marvelous views of the mountain itself from land, sea and air, the views from the TOP of it are incredible! Of course, to enjoy those vistas one must climb the mountain, which is actually an extinct volcanic crater; not to worry, it last erupted about 150,000 years ago! We took The Bus to the road leading to the base of the crater in the early morning (to avoid the tropical heat that would come later in the day), armed with water (for obvious reasons) and a flashlight provided by the staff at our timeshare (for reasons that would become obvious). Our assault on Leahi (its Hawaiian name) began comfortably enough with an easy, paved trail. That soon changed to a steeper rocky path which led to, in the words of the T-shirt that I insisted on buying as a commemoration of the event, "271 concrete steps, dim tunnels, a pitch-dark spiral staircase, crawling through unlit bunkers, just to reach the summit" We did reach the summit, and the view was actually worth it...and then some.

A "don’t miss" destination on Oahu is The Polynesian Cultural Center in Laie on the northern shore. Once again, if you don’t have a car, there are several transportation options available, and the trip to the Center passes through some picturesque, less populated areas of the island. To fully enjoy all of the attractions, plan on arriving by 1:30pm (gates open at 12:30pm Monday through Saturday, closed Sunday). There are 3 main packages available with differing levels of "upgrades" and differing prices. The Ambassador Package is our favorite, although it’s also the most expensive. It includes a personally guided tour of the Center (with a small group of approximately 6 visitors), the VIP dinner, premium seating at the evening show (with complimentary dessert during intermission), and a free souvenir program and video. The primary reason we prefer this package is the guided tour provided by the students of Brigham Young University-Hawaii (the Center was established in 1963 for their support). These students, many from the islands of Polynesia, learn how to preserve their indigenous cultures while earning their college degrees. They are eager and enthusiastic guides who are delighted to share their knowledge and experiences. The afternoon begins with a boat pageant, in which six of the seven Polynesian nations represented at the Center are introduced via short performances on canoes in the lagoon. Afterwards, you may stroll along the lushly-landscaped pathways or take a canoe trip to the seven villages, where you’ll be entertained by native performers who share their stories, songs and dances (and invite audience members to learn some of each!); then you can join the "villagers" in the crafts and games of each culture. There’s also an IMAX theater with multiple showings of films that relate to the islands and their link to the Pacific ocean, as well as shops offering gifts and hand-made craftwork. In the late afternoon dinner is served in one of three settings (depending upon the package), followed by entry to the open-air amphitheater for the spectacular evening show, which features productions by each of the Center’s nations and a remarkable fire-knife dance finale. A trip to the Polynesian Cultural Center is a thoroughly entertaining and enjoyable way to "travel" to Fiji, Tahiti, Tonga, Samoa, New Zealand, the Marquesas, and Old Hawaii. You’ll learn about their people, their cultures, their history and their customs...make lasting memories....and have a terrific time doing it!

We ended our visit to Oahu with a limo tour around the island. Our driver and intrepid guide was Vinnie, the certified "character" of Royal Hawaiian Transportation. Departing from Waikiki, we drove past homes of celebrities, Diamond Head's crater base, Hanauma Bay, Sea Life Park, several beaches and famous landmarks; then we traveled to the windward side of Oahu with its breathtaking, ever-changing scenery. There were stops at local favorites such as Shave Ice stands, small shops, deserted beaches....this would actually be an excellent tour for a first-time tourist since it’s an introduction to many places to remember and revisit. Lunchtime found us at the one-and-only Giovanni’s Shrimp Truck in Kahuku (on the North Shore near the sugar mill). Owners Giovanni and Connie served us delectable plates of huge shrimp (try the combo of all three preparations: scampi, grilled and hot & spicy), which we savored at the picnic tables under their awning. Listening to Vinnie and Giovanni banter back and forth was an amusing accompaniment to the delicious food. What appears to be graffiti on the shrimp truck is actually the collection of compliments left by their highly-satisfied customers....look for the "Jan’s Journeys" inscription! Happily stuffed, we continued our tour (along with Vinnie’s irrepressible stream of commentary and entertaining supply of local lore) to the world-renowned surfing beaches of the North Shore. If the surf isn’t up during your visit, ask Vinnie to show you one of his photos of the immense winter waves....he might even share one of his surfing stories with you. Our day-long journey ended with a trip through downtown Honolulu then back to Waikiki.