Santa Catalina Island

Santa Catalina is part of California's channel island chain, located roughly 20 miles offshore from L.A. Visitors aren't allowed to bring in cars, so access is by boat or air. We took one of the Catalina Express Company's fiberglass vessels which make the channel crossing in a little over one hour. Passage on the larger, steel-hulled boats takes about 2 hours. Long Beach and San Pedro are the starting points for these boats; and the Catalina Flyer, a catamaran which crosses in about 75 minutes, departs from Newport Beach. We discovered that islanders are also restricted when it comes to automobiles. The number of cars has been limited, so new residents must put their names on a waiting list in order to receive a permit for their own auto; clearing that list takes 10-11 years!! The transportation alternative is the golf cart (the "Catalina Limo")! Tourists may rent them, and residents and businesses use them extensively (even the number of those compact vehicles has been limited to one per household).

As we approached the island, our first sight was of the striking and imposing Casino. We soon learned that this magnificent building has never seen gambling, as suggested by a modern interpretation of its name. Rather, the word "casino" is taken from an Italian term meaning "festive area". Construction was begun in 1928, and it was the first completely round, steel-reinforced structure built in the U.S. in modern times. It was also the first acoustically engineered theater in America, with 10 cone-shaped mural panels forming the acoustical system. The famous ballroom (which originally held 2,500 couples) was the territory of all of the Big Bands of the era; a radio program was broadcast nationally, bringing Avalon and Catalina widespread attention. Tours are conducted of the historic building, and entertainment events are still scheduled in the art deco ballroom.

Avalon is a singular combination of the prototypical funky California beach town and a sleepy seaside village with narrow lanes and houses ascending steep hills. The oceanside "front street" (Crescent) holds a nostalgic collection of shops, restaurants, cafes (one diner is even called "Eat at Joe's")...and no chain fast-food establishments or stores. The green "pleasure pier" is lined with booths offering diving, snorkeling, boat excursions, plus the iconic building containing Rosie's Seafood. We took a glass bottom boat...one of the endearing remnants of Catalina's past. The first tours began in the 1890s and still delight passengers today with views of the delicately-colored kelp beds and fishy denizens of Lovers' Cove (as well as deep-diving, showoff Cormorants). Nighttime trips follow the Catalina Flying Fish, who are attracted by the lights of the boats. This unique species has four "wings" (fins) as opposed to other flying fish who have only two; vibrating their tails, they leap off of the tops of waves to begin their flight.

Another beloved place in Avalon is the Holly Hill House. This unusual hillside home, with its green and red striped conical cupola, was built in 1889 by Peter Gano with the assistance of his reportedly blind horse, Mercury. It took them two years to bring the building supplies up from the beach and construct the residence. He called his home "Look Out Cottage" but only had room to inscribe the words "Look Out Cot" in the small stones above the main door (we couldn't figure out what a "cot" was until a shopkeeper explained the history). The story we heard contends that Mr. Gano was building this house for his sweetheart, who had found another love by the time he finished his labors!! Subsequent owners renamed the house in honor of the holly that grows in abundance on the property. It is still privately owned but is opened for tours at certain times during the year.

Catalina's distant past is as fascinating as its more recent history. In 1542 it was encountered by Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo (a Portuguese explorer in a Spanish ship), who was met by friendly Indians upon his arrival. He named the island San Salvador (in honor or his flagship). After his departure, 60 years passed before another explorer landed. In 1602 General Sebastian Viscaino was on an expedition to the "Kingdom of California" when he landed the day before the Feast of St. Catherine; he therefore named the island Santa Catalina. By this time there were about 2,500 Indians living in orderly villages throughout the valleys. The island was once again forgotten by the outside world until fur traders were attracted by the sea otters living along Catalina's coast (hunters went on to decimate the population of these wonderful creatures). From then on, the isolated spot changed ownership several times. In the 1890s it became a popular destination for tourists (with sportfishing, tent villages for vacationers, and several hotels under construction). An island company which initially produced roofing tile and other utilitarian products soon become well known for its beautiful decorative tiles and pottery, and the originals are highly-prized collectors' items today.

Following a disastrous fire in 1915, William Wrigley of Chicago (and chewing-gum fame) purchased a majority interest from the financially troubled owners of the Santa Catalina Island Company. This was a fortuitous event in Catalina's history since Mr. Wrigley and his wife Ada fell totally in love with the scenic island and devoted themselves to protecting and preserving its unique character. Their splendid mansion on Mt. Ada, which receives the island's first sunlight of the morning and the last rays in the evening (per Mr. Wrigley's stipulation for his homesite), is now a luxurious B&B. His baseball team, the Chicago Cubs, conducted spring training on Catalina for many years; if the boys weren't performing up to standard during practice, he'd request that they "come up and say goodnight"...meaning they had to run up the numerous steps to his front door, pay their respects, then run down again! Mr. Wrigley's memorial (initially his mausoleum, until his body was moved to Forest Lawn Cemetery in the L.A. area) was constructed following his death in 1932, built mostly from materials taken from the island. This sublimely peaceful spot overlooks the bay and a beautiful Botanical Garden which highlights the endemic plants of the Channel Islands and Catalina itself. The Wrigley family has given the Santa Catalina Island Conservancy, which is dedicated to safeguarding Catalina's natural state, a gift which comprises approximately 86% of the island in order to perpetuate the guardianship of this incredible resource.

If you're looking for a place to stay, the Hotel Metropole has excellent facilities; the staff was gracious; and it's surrounded by a charming courtyard containing restaurants and shops...that's where we'll stay on our next visit! Their phone number is 800-300-8528 (in California) or 800-541-8528 (nationwide), and their URL is http://www.catalina.com/metropole.

There are many other activities on the island...such as diving and snorkeling, hiking, tours of the rugged inland area, or simply strolling down the romantic streets in the evening. We found Santa Catalina to be a very special destination. King Arthur finally found his Avalon; I journeyed to my Avalon after a lifelong wait; if you travel there, you can make your own memories on this unforgettable little island...and discover your "Avalon."

Provided By: Jan's Journeys